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Turns out, Ireland doesn’t need to make wine to win your heart.

Updated: Jan 18

Ballyvaughan, Ireland via Wine By Appointment LLC
Ballyvaughan, Ireland via Wine By Appointment LLC

I'd taken to rolling my eyes when friends would extol the virtues of Ireland. I had nothing against Ireland… they just don't make wine, so I had little interest in visiting. Until a very special event prompted us to visit (more about that later), I couldn't have been more wrong about a place. True, Ireland isn't known for its Pinot Noirs, sparkling wines, or zesty whites, but it does have ready access to all of them. So, in late November, we set sail (or wing) for Ireland.

We spent most of our time in Western Ireland, but we bookended our trip with two stays in Dublin.   Our destination was Ballyvaughan, famous for many things, but primarily for marking the beginning of the Burren. By now, you're asking, "What's a burren?"  The Burren is a rocky karst landscape in County Clare, Ireland, known for its limestone pavements, an unusual mix of Arctic, Alpine, and Mediterranean wildflowers, ancient archaeological sites, and deep caves, resembling a movie set for a planet from outer space, and also referred to as "the fertile rock" for the flora that thrives in its limestone fissures. 


There were so many high points to this trip that it's difficult to list them all. So, here's the very best of the best of Ireland.


What's Surprised Us

The People:

First and foremost, the people. The Irish are nice, so much so that I was initially suspicious. Nobody is that nice, right? But they are incredibly helpful, polite, and genuinely interested in you. It takes a bit of time to get used to.

 

The Scenery:

Ireland has some of the most picturesque vistas in the world. From Galway Bay to the Cliffs of Moher, we were entranced. 

 

The Roads:

The roads. We were warned by many about how narrow and treacherous the roads were and that you'll be driving on the left. Nobody mentioned, however, that not only are the roads narrow, but they are all bordered by ancient stone walls, making driving even more perilous. (The stone walls were erected primarily to keep livestock from wandering and to mark boundaries. But they are also referred to as "famine walls". Many were built to provide labor and food in the 1840's.)


Where We Stayed


Dublin:

Holiday Inn – City Center Dublin, Ireland

Pleasant, comfortable, and affordable accommodations; the selling factor here is the location – close to Henry Street, the main shopping center of Dublin, and Parnell Street, known for galleries and the impressive Garden of Remembrance. Another selling point is its proximity to Murray's Bar, where we first experienced brown bread.

Details:

🛏️Address: 28-32 O'Connell Street Upper Dublin 1 Dublin, D01 T2X2 Ireland

☎️Phone number: 351-1-878-8099

 

Morrison Hotel Dublin

Posh hotel with congenial accommodation, including great eateries. Great location, within walking distance of Dublin's most popular attractions.

Details:

🛏️Address: Ormond Quay Lower, North City, Dublin, D01 K5X5, Ireland

☎️Phone Number: 353-1-887-2400

 

Ballyvaughan

Monk's Ballyvaughan

Monk's Ballyvaughan Ballyvaughan, Ireland via Wine By Appointment LLC


There are not enough adjectives for charming to aptly describe this hotel. With an expansive view of Galway Bay, this hotel will delight and exceed every expectation you had about Irish hotels, pubs, and eateries. Decked out for the Christmas holidays, it looked like it was lifted from a Christmas card. With an equally delightful staff, they made our trip go from good to amazing. We had a great start each day, sitting in the Monk's cozy dining room, enjoying the Full Irish breakfasts (which were included) with very generously proportioned rooms to boot. Our week in Ballyvaughan sped by.

Details:

🛏️Address: The Pier, Lisnanard, Ballyvaughan, Co. Clare, H91 W9TN, Ireland

☎️Phone:  353-65-707-7059

🌐Website: monks.ie

📧 Email: info@monks.ie

 

What We Ate & Drank:

A list of the extraordinary restaurants, pubs, and whatnots we had a chance to visit:

 

Murray's Bar

Murray's Bar & Grill Dublin, Ireland via www.murraybar.ie

Visiting Murray's Bar was a great introduction to Irish pubs. Substantial portions of traditional Irish fare and drinks in an expansive environment were particularly welcoming to two weary travelers. A live band featuring Irish ballads had literally everyone in the bar/restaurant singing along (except for us, of course)—an excellent place to become indoctrinated in all things Irish, in particular their Beef & Guinness stew and, of course, brown bread.

 Details:

🛏️Address: 33-34 O'Connell Street Upper, Rotunda, Dublin 1, D01 E0W2, Ireland

☎️Phone: 353-1-215-0399

🌐Website: murraysbar.ie

 

 

Monk's Ballyvaughan

Delectable Irish standbys and local seafood dishes make this pub restaurant a destination. The Fish and Chips alone are worth the trip, and, of course, more brown bread (it grows on you).

 Details:

🛏️Address: The Pier, Lisnanard, Ballyvaughan, Co. Clare, H91 W9TN, Ireland

☎️Phone:  353-65-707-7059

🌐Website: monks.ie

📧 Email: info@monks.ie

 

 

Hyland Burren Hotel

Hyland Burren Hotel Ballyvaughan, Ireland via www.hylandburren.com


Delightfully authentic (very overused word, I know, but it fits here) with a wood-burning stove and a snug and welcoming dining area. Features Irish standbys, but also some great pasta dishes. And the wine list is pretty good too.

 Details:

🛏️Address: Hylands Burren Hotel, The Square, Ballyvaughan, Co. Clare, Ireland

☎️Phone: 065-707–7037

🌐Website:  www.hylandburren.com

 

Gregans Castle Hotel

Gregans Castle Hotel Gragan East, Ireland via Wine By Appointment LLC


We were lucky enough to have tea at this fabulous hotel/dining room/castle.   There is nothing like a scone from Ireland sorry, but they have special scone fairy dust that makes scones extra appealing). Put a tea outing on your list – but make a reservation well in advance as it's very popular (for good reason). Closed during December and January, so plan your trip to Ireland in the spring and summer. Best to call for reservations.

 Details:

🛏️Address: Gragan East, Co. Clare, H91 CF60, Ireland

☎️Phone Number:  353-65-707-7005

🌐Website:  www.gregans.ie

📧 Email: stay@gregans.ie

 

  

O'Lochlainn's Irish Whiskey Bar

O'Locklainn's Irish Wiskey Bar Ballyvaughan, Ireland via Wine By Appointment LLC


The Irish version of the Bull & Finch Bar (a bit of trivia from old TV shows), but 100 times better. O'Lochlainn's is a place where everyone knows their names. Margaret O'Lochlainn, proprietress and publican of O'Lochlainn's, holds court nightly and makes a very mean Irish Coffee, which is legendary. If you want to see what other bars only aspire to be, plan a visit to O'Lochlainn's.

 Details:

🛏️Address:  Main Street, Ballyvaughan, Co. Clare, H91 C436, Ireland

☎️Phone Number: 373-65-707-7006

 

 

The Larder Cafe:

The Larder Cafe Ballyvaughan, Ireland via Wine By Appointment LLC

With an eclectic vibe furnished in early funk and amazingly good baked goods, quiche, salads, and other goodies, the Larder Cafe is a find. Enjoy homemade soups served by friendly staff, and I promise you'll want to come back.

 Details:

🛏️Address:  Rent An Irish Cottage, Knocknagroagh, Ballyvaughan, Co. Clare, Ireland

☎️Phone:  353-86-733-3454

 

 

 

Things To See & Do:

 

Burren College of Art:

Burren College of Art Ballyvaughan, Ireland via Wine By Appointment LLC

I don't often recommend colleges as tourist attractions, unless you're in the market for a degree, but Burren College of Art is worth seeing, not just for artists. Beautiful grounds, a carefully restored tower, art, and friendly staff make it a memorable trip.

 Details:

🛏️Address:  Newtown Castle, Ballyvaughan, Ireland H91 H299

☎️Phone: 353-65-707-7200

🌐Website: burrencollege.ie

 

Aillwee Burren Experience:

An experience that really lets you get your Burren on. Features tours of some of Ireland's oldest caves, which is saying something, because Ireland is full of caves (who knew). And, a Bird of Prey show, which was very interesting and informative. I opted out of the cave tour and headed for the Farm and Cheese store (I know what's good!). Aillwee obviously offers something for everyone, including fantastic fudge. Check their Website to see what attractions are available.

 Details:

🛏️Address: Ballycahill, Ballyvaughan, Co. Clare, H91 AX26, Ireland.

☎️Phone:  353 -65-707-7036

 

 

The Cliffs of Moher

Cliffs of Moher Ireland via Wine By Appointment LLC

If you have only time and budget for one nature attraction, this should be the one you put in your itinerary. The Cliffs of Moher, so named after an ancient fort, Mothar, that once stood at the southernmost point but was demolished in the 1800's. Moher is the English translation of the Gaelic word. Dramatic and majestic cliffs jut out over the Atlantic Ocean, home to all types of birds, flora, and fauna, and are incredible. The Cliffs of Moher were added as an UNESCO Geopark in 2011. Just so you know, UNESCO Global Geoparks are internationally recognized places with unique geology, landscapes, history, and culture.

 Details:

🛏️Address:  Liscannor, Co. Clare, Ireland V95 KN9T

☎️Phone: 353-65-708-6141; 353-87-6566-133

🌐Website:  www.cliffsofmoher.ie

 

 

Bunratty Castle

Bunratty Castle and Folk Park Ireland via Wine By Appointment LLC

Oh yeah, Ireland has castles, lots of them. And this is one you should visit. Bunratty Castle, built on an old Viking trading camp, has stood watch over the county since the 15th century. The castle and adjoining Folk Park are filled with replicas of 19th-century buildings designed to give visitors a taste of what life was like back then. Go with a good appetite, because there are plenty of restaurants and food outlets with goodies to nosh on throughout your visit.

  Details:

🛏️Address:  Liscannor, Co. Clare, Ireland V95 KN9T

☎️Phone: 353-65-711-222

 

Galway and Galway Christmas Market

Galway Ireland via Wine By Appointment LLC

We're Christmas market freaks – so it was with great anticipation that we drove from Ballyvaughan to Galway for our first Christmas market in Ireland. It didn't disappoint. There was booth after booth featuring food and drink and Irish wares; it was captivating.  

 

A visit to Galway is definitely worthwhile, even if you miss the Christmas festivities. A charming harbor city, it offers great restaurants, eateries, and superb shopping where you can buy some of those wonderful Irish woolens (check out Weavers of Ireland – a tremendous store!).

 Details:

 

 

Conclusion:

So maybe it's not always about the wine… I'm so glad we went to Ireland, where we got to experience the people, the food, the culture, and the wild beauty that draws so many people there. Valuable lesson learned!

 

Although it was grand touring Ireland, we went primarily for a very special occasion. My enormously talented nephew, Adam, married his equally talented love, Robbie, in an incredibly moving, very Irish ceremony. So, Adam and Robbie, may the road rise to meet you, may the wind be always at your back. Grá go deo.

 



 
 

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